The remarkable beauty of its varied topography combined with its strategic location relative to the state’s capital city and interstate highways have made Glastonbury the cream of the "east of the river" communities. Encompassing 52 square miles, it is also the state's most expansive municipality.

During the American Revolution, Yale University held classes here. Noah Webster once taught in a one-room schoolhouse here. Lincoln's secretary of the Navy, Gideon Welles, was born here. And the J. B. Williams Co. produced their world famous shaving lotions "Aqua Velva" and "Lectric Shave" here. Glastonbury also hatched Arbor Acres, one of the world's largest poultry producers, gave birth to the delicious Hale peach, and once grew some the world's finest cigar tobacco.

Historically, Glastonbury comprised three principal villages—Glastonbury Center, South Glastonbury, and East Glastonbury—each community centered on both agriculture and industry. The Connecticut River's local tributaries—the Salmon, Hubbard, and Roaring Brooks—provided waterpower for early manufacturing and the fertile river bottomland and the highlands were conducive to farming. The river itself was a vital artery to the rest of the region, state, nation and the world.

Originally part of Wethersfield, Glastonbury incorporated in 1693. With a current population of approximately 32,500, the town has seen a consistent average annual growth of about 15percent since the 1970s, and anticipates that trend continuing with a burgeoning housing market in the east and south on former woodlands, farms and orchards. Today, Glastonbury hubs of activity reflect its historic roots: Somerset Square and the Town Center in the north, South Glastonbury village and satellite commercial areas in East Glastonbury.

Touring the Town

Enter Glastonbury from Wethersfield on Route 3, and The Shops at Somerset Square on Glastonbury Boulevard serve as a sophisticated contemporary gateway. One of America's first "lifestyle centers," with nearly half a million square feet of upscale retail space housed in a complex of classically-inspired architecture, the square was designed in the late 1980s by Robert A.M. Stern, now Dean of the Yale School of Architecture. Its layout essentially creates a traditional-style town square—for a town that never had one. It ingeniously integrates automobile traffic through a stylish mall setting for easier access to its trendy shops, boutiques, and restaurants.

 The 150-room Hilton Garden Inn, the town's first hotel, opened in 2004 adjacent to Route 3 and  "the Square." Next-door is the Hilton's 136-unit Homewood Suites, a residential-style hotel for extended-stay travelers.Drive east on the boulevard to the corner of Main Street, where Griswold Mall has Bertucci's on one flank and Garden of Light health food store on the other. In between is Center of the Plate Market, a narrow, old-fashioned grocery specializing in Coleman natural meats and fresh seafood, with supplies of Colorado buffalo meat that arrive every other Saturday. This is also a great spot for prepared take-out meals.

Heading south toward Glastonbury Center, Main Street is a mixed commercial thoroughfare, highlighted by Katz's Ace Hardware, a veritable town landmark founded in 1920 by Joe and Ben Katz. Today, third-generation owner, Dick Katz, and his staff are the definition of customer service in the recently expanded store that preserves a refreshing small-town ambience.

The stately Wells-Turner Library, a tree-shaded park and fountain and the historic Gideon Welles House, now Emmy Lou's Ltd., a unique gift boutique, anchor Glastonbury Center. The Center today thrives with dozens of businesses located in four plazas along Hebron Avenue and Welles Street.

A modification of zoning regulations to allow outdoor dining has resulted in an influx of pedestrian traffic to such alfresco venues as Daybreak Coffee, Adriatik Family Restaurant, and the Diamond Restaurant and Grille. The Diamond, a venerable Glastonbury watering hole, has refurbished its bar and expanded its dining area to accommodate the increased demand for its famous burgers, sandwiches, and seafood.

Main Street—south of the center—is the beginning of the Historic District, with handsome 18th and 19th century homes built by some of the town's most prominent early families. On the corner of Hubbard Street, the Glastonbury Historical Society (in what was the original Town Hall) features exhibits that celebrate the town's Native American, agricultural and industrial heritage. Behind it, the original Town Green is the site of the Art Guild's annual art shows and the town's Concerts on the Green, while the adjacent Green Cemetery has headstones dating back to the 1600s.

Two miles south, Main Street merges with Route 17 on its way to South Glastonbury village. On the right, the Connecticut Audubon Society presents nature programs, lectures and music. It's appropriately situated at the entrance of Earle Park, 48 acres of woods and trails along the Connecticut River. Just a stone's throw away is the Cider Mill, one of the country's oldest mills. It's open only in the fall to sell local fruits, vegetables, cider, and its tasty apple fritters.

Less than a mile down the road is Berruti's Harvest House, one of several popular farm markets along Route 17 in South Glastonbury. Ensconced at the foot of the hilly, third-generation farm, the market is a stunning tableau of colors: field fresh vegetables, fruits from the orchards, including its own specially cultivated white plums and white peaches, all accented by a palette of fresh flowers. Berruti's is one of the few orchards that still grows rare heirloom apples such as Northern Spy and Black Twig.

Further on, just before South Glastonbury's village center, the Welles-Shipman-Ward House, built in 1755, "possesses exceptional architecture" according to the U.S. Department of the Interior. Now owned by the Historical Society, the house, its 18th-century-style herb gardens and vintage barns are open to visitors.
South Glastonbury has been described as the perfect pedestrian village—a mix of historic and contemporary buildings with sidewalks that make any of its attractions easily accessible. Among the popular spots, there are three historic churches, Main and Hopewell Restaurant, well known for upscale dining and tasteful jazz; Harpo's Bakery, featuring fresh baked breads and desserts; Gardiner's Market, an updated small-town grocery operation that's brimming with fine products and a personal touch that emanates from its long family tradition; and Char Koon, whose creative Pacific Rim cuisine has earned this cozy hide-away a well-deserved regional status. At the southernmost tip of the village, in what was once the venerable and fondly remembered Brookside Restaurant, is the "new kid" on the block, Anna's on Main, which has quickly established a flock of loyal fans.

Behind Anna's, above the village, Cotton Hollow Preserve is a hiker's delight, with paths winding along boisterous Roaring Brook to the impressive ruins of what was once a vibrant 18th and 19th century industrial community. Waterfalls with pools of cool, sparkling water often draw a skinny-dipper or two on a hot summer's day.

From Main Street, a right on Water Street leads west on a scenic road toward the Glastonbury Hill-Rocky Hill Ferry landing, and the Seaboard Marina on the Connecticut River, home of the Glastonbury High School rowing team. Along the way, the horsy set struts its stuff amid the lovely meadowlands that provide a perfect setting for expansive equestrian centers.

Heading east out of the village, Hopewell Road winds up through the hills to Chestnut Hill Road and on into East Glastonbury. Several spots offer a breathtaking view of the Connecticut River. At the junction of New London Turnpike, Chestnut Hill Commons includes the Country Store that happily advertises live bait, crawlers and worms among its other wares, and Lottie's Country Kitchen, renowned for its robust breakfasts and lunches. Just down the pike in Buck's Corners Plaza, Glastonbury Gourmet provides prepared dinners, private dining, cooking classes and demonstrations.

Drive down Quarry Road, and take a left on Manchester Road to Hebron Avenue where a few decades ago this crossroads was a remote outpost with little more than a gas station and the historic Buckingham Congregational Church. Today there's a plaza anchored by Highland Park Market, the famous gourmet food emporium that originated in Manchester.

From here, travel west on Hebron Avenue, toward Main Street and Route 17. On the corner of Village Place are the Addison Village Shops, which include Ming Bao Chinese Restaurant and Tribeca Café where mouth-watering soups and sandwiches have touched off word-of-mouth raves. Thistle Needleworks is a homegrown success story that specializes in threaded-needle arts—crewel, counted cross-stitch, needlepoint, etc— and presents a dazzling array of materials and services.

Glastonbury's appeal today stems from its ability to blend its abundant supply of country chic with a steady infusion of cutting-edge contemporary. While residents accept the inevitability of continued development, they have never been shy about saying "enough is enough" when it comes to preserving its natural assets. Much of the town's recent efforts have been directed toward developing amenities for its senior citizens and enhancing the enduring appeal of its riverfront.

By Kevin Hinchey
Photo by Al Ferreira